Besides the fortress, the first half mile stretch after the fortress had been completely renovated, making Shanhaiguan a favorite historical seaside destination for the Chinese.  Bus loads of Chinese tourists were dropped off and left to roam around the renovated section taking photos of themselves at every spot imaginable.  At the end of the renovated stretch, a light barricade blocked the adventurous from going any further, so the few that made it to the barricade simply turned around satisfied.  It was quite fun watching them spend two hours or so at the site.  Their joy was contagious and for most of the day I found myself jumping with joy as well. 

After eating as much as I could handle at the local restaurants, I purchased a couple meals to go.  Chinese 'takeout' had yet to hit China, so I had to scrape up a couple plastic bags to get it to go.  They seemed a bit curious about takeout, but none the less filled the order.  This food would be greatly appreciated later.   

The sun was beginning to lower so I separated myself and began to walk west, away from the crowd.  Nobody saw me climb over the barricade and begin what would become a never ending up or down mountain trek, using the Wall as my only guide.  I really had no idea as to what I was getting into . . . starting tomorrow.  That first night I was just seeking shelter in a tower, away from people and hopefully mosquitos too. I had no map or book warning of the rugged, desolate terrain where the wall would take me, a journey that would not end until eleven months later.